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Equipment
Demo machine shown, allow 1 week for delivery of new unit. |
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BIG
FOOT POLISHER
This machine is designed for use in tight quarters such as motor homes
and trailers. It is a "Genie" that fits in a shoe box.
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Item #: BFP01
Weight: 12 lbs.
Size: 12"x11"x6.25"
Price: $1090.00 plus shipping.
Trim Saw attachment separate.
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Demo Machine shown, Allow 1 week for delivery of new unit.
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TRIM SAW ATTACHMENT
A 4" saw attachment for the Big Foot polisher. The adapter
will accommodate blades with either 1/2" or 5/8" arbor
hole.
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Item #: TSA01
Weight: 1 lb.
Price: $100.00 plus shipping
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TRIM SAW/POLISHER
Made by Lortone. Table top. Diamond Wheel.
Item #: TSP01
Weight: 45 lbs.
Price: $350.00 plus shipping
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Diamond Core
Bits
Diamond rim brazed core
bits
Diameter:6mm
Shank:5mm
GDW:10gm
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Item #: DCB01
Weight: 0.3 oz.
Size: 6 mm
Price: $7.50
Diameter:8mm
Shank:7mm
GDW:18g
Item #: DCB02
Weight: 0.5 oz.
Size: 8mm
Price: $9.50
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Diamond Core Bit Set
Item #: DCBS01
Weight: 3.7 oz.
Size: 10, 13, 16, 19, 22 & 25mm
Price: $30.00
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Diamond coated
drill bits
10 pieces Coated - not brazed
Diameter:7mm
Total length:58mm,2-1/4"
Shank:6mm
GDW:65g
Item #: DCBS02
Weight: 2.4 oz.
Size: 7 mm ea.
Price: $12.50 for 10
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VELCRO PAD
Use with the Barranca Wet Grinder (Replacement for worn out original).
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Item #: VRP01
Weight: 3.7 oz.
Size: 4 inches
Price: $6.95
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Flexible
Diamond Pad
Extra course grinding pad for the Barranca Wet Grinder.
Made in China.
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Item #: FDP01
Weight: 1.2 oz.
Size: 4 inches
Price: $14.95
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PLEASE NOTE THAT SHIPPING COSTS
ARE
CALCULATED FOR DOMESTIC USA DELIVERY ONLY! PLEASE REQUEST A QUOTE
FOR SHIPMENT TO A
NON-USA ADDRESS! Thank you! |
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DIAMOND
CUPS for Sphere Grinding, long lasting
and renewable.These cups made on plumbing Bell Jar reducer fittings
are standard pipe thread. We can deliver custom sizes and mesh.
Call or e-mail with your requirements. Identify
the size mesh ordered in the checkout message.
Yellow = 40/50 mesh
Blue = 50/60 mesh
Red = 140-170 mesh
Green = 220 mesh
White = 600 mesh
Item No.: DC01
Weight: 2.5 lbs.
Size: 2 x 3/4 inch
Price: $149.95 (Set of 3)
Diamond Sphere Cups
Item No.: DC02
Size: 1.5 x 3/4 Inch
Price: $119.95 (Set of 3)
Diamond Sphere Cups
Item No.: DC03
Size: 1.25 x 3/4 inch
Price: $99.95 (Set of 3)
Diamond Sphere Cups
Item No.: DC04
Size: 1 x 3/4 Inch
Price: $89.95 (Set of 3)
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Diamond Sphere Cups
2.5 Inch Black Pipe. 50/60 mesh for hard stones.
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Item No.: DC05
Weight: 5.75 lbs.
Size: 2.5 X 1 inch
Price: $199.95 Set of 3
3/4 " reducers included upon request.
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Diamond Sphere
Cups
3 Inch ID Black Pipe. 50/60 mesh for hard stones.
4.25"OD
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Item No. DC06
Weight: 7.5 lbs.
Size: 3 X 1 inch
Price: $249.95 Set of 3
3/4 " reducers included upon request.
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Use standard brazing techniques to make your own cups. You'll make
better spheres faster, cleaner and cheaper.
Course
Mesh Diamond Brazing Rods
Braze your own diamond grinding cups
on Bell Jar reducers for making spheres. Each rod weighs aprox.
1 oz and is 15 inches long. Available in the following mesh sizes:
30/40, 40/50, 50/60,
140/170. Pre-Brazed cups available in most standard
pipe fitting sizes. Additional info available on request.
Identify the size mesh ordered in the checkout
message Box.
Item
#: DR01
Price: $16.00 ea. plus shipping
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Medium/Fine
Diamond Brazing Rods
Braze your own diamond grinding cups on Bell Jar reducers
for making spheres. Each rod weighs aprox. 1 oz and is 15 inches long.
Available in the following mesh sizes: 220, 600,
Pre-Brazed cups available in most standard pipe fitting sizes. Additional
info available on request. Identify
the size mesh ordered in the checkout message Box.
Item #: DR02
Price: $17.50 ea. plus shipping
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DIAMOND BRAZED CUPS - FAQ
1. I'm wondering about how many spheres can be ground before discarding
or refreshing the diamond.
Answer: It depends! There are many variables to consider.
a. Hardness of the rock
b. Size of the cups
c. Speed of cup rotation (I recommend between 150 and 200 RPM)
d. Tension on the cups
e. Mesh size and concentration of diamond in the matrix.
Experience so far has shown that in excess of 50 balls can be ground before
renewal of course diamond matrix is required using the diamond rods we
sell. The fine mesh rods last even longer.
2. Can you apply more diamond as the original brazing wears away or do
you have to toss the old brazed cups and replace them completely?
Answer: Once brazed, the cups can be renewed with new
diamond practically forever. The second brazed will meld and blend with
whatever is leftover from the first braze. The only thing you have to
"toss" is the grindings in the drip pan under the cups.
3.What diamond mesh size should I use as a roughing grade or should I
use a medium grade to try it out first before going completely diamond?
Answer: The rods come in a variety of mesh sizes designed
to meet standard lapidary techniques. Here is a list of popular sizes
and their uses:
a. 30/40 mesh - Used for course grinding of soft stones such as Marble,
Onyx or Granite. Stones of 5 hardness (Mohs) or less. The reason is that
the harder stones will crack and break the diamond bits out of the matrix.
You must then re-sharpen the cup to expose more diamond.
b. 40/50 mesh - This is a good all around course grind compromise between
speed of cutting and longevity of the cups. Most Lapidary applications
can use this mesh size.
c. 50/60 mesh - Used to course grind harder agates and Petrified Wood.
Provides good longevity of cups without excessive scoring of the stone.
d. 140/170 mesh - Use as a medium smoothing step to remove scratches made
by 30/40 mesh grinding if necessary. Use this size to work Jasper that
tends to flake and chip. Not needed in most applications.
e. 220 mesh - Use as a medium smoothing step to remove scratches made
by course (40/50, 50/60) mesh grinding if necessary.
f. 600 mesh - This size will provide a semi-polish (pre-polish) before
preceding to the final polish. Most of the time I've been able to go directly
from course grind to this mesh with great results. It's amazing how much
slurry is produced by the 600 mesh cups rotating at 157 RPM.
4. I have my own torch and have some existing worn-in cups. Can they
be brazed?
Answer: Yes! Standard brazing techniques are used to
apply the rod to the steel cups. A word of CAUTION! Do
not braze GALVANIZED cups without using the proper breathing
(Carbon Filtered) mask. Galvanized cups heated with a torch produce toxic
fumes. Try to remove as much of the galvanize as possible before heating.
5. Do the grinding cups need to be beveled inside?
Answer: The cups will perform better and are easier to
adjust if beveled before brazing. I recommend a 22 degree angle about
5/16's of an inch wide inside the cup. You can simply pre-grind the cup
using silicon carbide until you get the desired beveled surface. Otherwise,
visit your local Mill Shop.
6. How well do I have to make the weld on the cup?
Answer: The weld doesn't have to be pretty or even smooth.
The wear from the stone you are grinding will soon make the surface very
smooth. It will take several spheres of various sizes to smooth out the
weld from edge to edge. A deposit depth of at least 1/8th inch is recommended.
7. How do I tell when to renew the diamond braze?
Answer: When you see the steel cup surface breaking through
the matrix it's time to re-braze the cup. In most cases the bottom inside
will wear through first (Point of most wear). The cup will still grind
on a larger sphere until you see the steel underneath breaking through.
8. My cups seem to have stopped cutting. What's wrong?
Answer: Just as in the case of a dull diamond saw blade,
the cups will sometimes glaze over and new diamond needs to be exposed.
Simply apply a few shakes of silicon carbide of the same mesh size as
the cups to expose more (new) diamond. Once you see the slurry return
after the S/C has washed away you have applied enough loose grit to sharpen
the cups. This should not be necessary very often. Another effective way
of getting the cups to cut once more is to put in a different sized ball.
I've found that this helps keep the wear more even as well.
9. How much water should I use on the sphere during grinding and polishing?
Answer: You need to keep a steady drip on the sphere
during grinding to flush out the loose particles. If the sphere is covered
with slurry then you need to increase the drip just a bit. When polishing
I start out with a light drip on the sphere using indoor-outdoor carpet
rolled up inside of PVC pipe and Tin Oxide for the polish compound. After
a half hour or more I turn off the water drip completely and dab moist
compound on the sphere until it heats up (about 45 minutes at 200 RPM).
Be careful doing this as any loose flakes in the sphere will pop out due
to the heat. If you have plates in your rock do not turn off the water.
10. How many rods will it take to braze my cups?
Answer: It depends on the cup size and depth of weld
deposit. I generally put 1/8th inch deep welds on approximately 5/16th
inch wide beveled cups which takes 1 rod per cup for 1 ¼ inch cups.
It takes about 1.25 to 1.5 rods to do each 2 inch cup but you can go a
little thinner on the depth and stretch it out. The rods are 15 inches
long for all mesh sizes. Please call if you have more questions concerning
the brazing process.
11. Why does the cup wear through in just one spot (usually near the
bottom of the circle)?
Answer: Unless you grind several different size spheres
over time the abrasive diamond matrix will be depleted in a single spot.
A small sphere size relative to the cup size will wear on the inner part
of the cup were as a larger sphere size will wear on the outer ring of
the cup. Even though the matrix has worn through in a particular spot,
the cup will still work on a different sized sphere.
Brazing Tips
Over time I’ve noticed some things using the brazing rods I’d
like to pass on in hopes of helping the folks out there braze their own
cups. First off, I have had varied success using the finer mesh sizes,
as the diamonds tend to clump up and make a resulting braze on the cup
ring that resembles cornbread.The small size of the diamonds makes them
want to stick together. I’ve found that this is made worse by having
the heat too hot from your torch. Also, if you heat one specific spot
too long the diamonds appear to loose their coatings making the mixing
of the diamonds with the melted matrix difficult. One way I’ve found
to minimize this is to gently stir the melt with the end of my brazing
rod as I go around the cup ring. The stirring action appears to make a
more consistent mix on the cup ring by breaking up the little clumps.
I’ve found that it is difficult to get the torch heat just right
for a smooth braze surface on the very small mesh diamond rods. This has
only been true with the finer mesh sizes as the larger diamonds blend
very well with the hot, melted matrix. Too much heat and the diamonds
explode into little shooting stars (a little bit of this is not a problem).
If your cup isn’t hot enough when you start brazing the melt cools
too quickly and makes for a very rough braze surface. I have had some
success in improving the appearance of the finished braze by dipping the
end of the hot rod into a can of Technical Borax flux powder (30 mesh).
I only do this when it appears the diamonds are having trouble blending
into the melt.
Another problem I’ve encountered is a variation in the quality of
the steel cups I’ve tried to braze. Some of them appear to have
a component that interferes with the brazing process. I’ve noticed
this problem on cups made in China more so than those made in Thailand.
The problem presents itself with lots of holes in the matrix as if there
is a gas emitting from the steel. Cups should be clean and totally clean
from oil or grease before brazing them. I use a Craftsman 5415 D-1 Acetylene
and Oxygen torch and a neutral flame on my cups.
Neutral Flame
Click on the following line to see..
A movie of my polishing
technique!
A movie of my sphere machine! (huge 3mb)
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